Most tourists go to Milford Sound, because it is easier accessible than the other sounds, and it also looks stunning of course. But don’t pass Doubtful Sound, it is bigger than Milford and very different. You’ll feel humbled being there.

Milford Sound isn’t the only Sound worth visiting in New Zealand.

Unlike Milford, there is no direct road access to Doubtful Sound. The only way to get there is by a 1h cruise across Lake Manapouri and a coach trip over Wilmot Pass. Because it isn’t easy to go there on your own, I teamed up with the local and family-owned Real Journeys for a day trip.

The trip to the start of our Doubtful Sound cruise was already beautiful, but once we were on the big boat in the Sound I was just blown away. Doubtful Sound is extremely vast (3x longer than Milford) and almost untouched by man. It’s also sometimes called the ‘Sound of Silence’, because – yes you guess it – it is so silent.

The calm water was mesmerising. It was a cold and crisp day, but I just didn’t want to go inside. We spent three hours on the water in the Sound, but I could’ve stayed much longer. Real Journeys also offers overnight cruises, but only unfortunately for me, not in winter. Spending a night on the water would be a dream.

What a perfect day.

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Disclosure: the day trip on Doubtful Sound was offered to me by Real Journeys. My opinions, stay as always my own. Since arriving in New Zealand, I’ve always wanted to visit Doubtful Sound, I’m happy I did now and that I can share this beautiful location with you. 

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We jumped in the car and were ready for our girls’ weekend. The drive from Christchurch to Akaroa is absolutely gorgeous (see some tips below for the best route). It was a cloudy day, but the Banks Peninsula still looked stunning. I think it’s very hard to find ‘ugly’ scenery in New Zealand. Oh, we’re so spoiled.

France or New Zealand?

Akaroa is a small, historic village on the Banks Peninsula, only an hour and a half from Christchurch. There are about 650 inhabitants, and it’s mostly known for its French touch.

French explorers tried to colonise Akaroa in 1840, but arrived just a few days after the British. They still managed to leave a big influence though. Akaroa breathes a French atmosphere, with the colonial architecture, French street names, and a gas station that’s called ‘L’Essence’.

Akaroa is small, but let that not mislead you. There are lots of things to do. You can find a list of my favourite activities below!

Dolphins with Black cat cruises

The Akaroa waters are home to the rare Hector dolphins. They are the smallest dolphin species around and a delight to see. Dolphins have something playful and disarming, I just love watching them.

Black Cat Cruises is the place to be if you like to meet some dolphins (and believe me: you want to!). We signed up for a swim with the dolphins and went on the water. There was a bit of a swell that day, which tested our stomachs, and made the boat ride very bumpy.

I didn’t really mind. It’s nature in its glory, and it made adrenaline rush through my veins.

I saw dolphins swimming and some even put a show up for us.

We also saw a White Flippered penguin, aka the world’s smallest penguin, in the middle of the water, which was cute and funny in a weird way. If you want to see some penguins from up close I highly recommend doing a tour with Pohatu Penguins. They help the population grow and take care of wounded penguins.

In the end all the dolphins we encountered were feeding, so we couldn’t swim with them. It was still very cool to see them in their habitat, and if you don’t manage to swim with the dolphins, Black Cat Cruises pays a portion of your fee back.

Alpacal Love

Do I need say anything more? Doesn’t this picture say everything? Alpacas are cute and they’re just the best.

On Saturday afternoon we spent some time with the alpacas at Shamarra Alpacas. They have 150 alpacas, and we got to walk between them, feed them, and learned a lot about this beautiful animal.

I don’t want to know how many photos I took, but I can tell you this: many.

Did you know that they produce wool in 22 different colours? It’s the only animal in the world that produces this many colours. They clearly wear it well.

Not only will you enjoy spending time with alpacas, you get some superb views, as the farm lies up a hill.

Accommodation

You won’t have any problem finding nice accommodation in Akaroa. There are Holiday Houses, B&B’s and hotels.

We opted for the Akaroa Waterfront Motel, because it is right in town, and – yes you guess it – right at the water. Our little studio with double bed and 2 single beds was perfect for the three of us. We had a couch, kitchenette, table and balcony!

I loved that we could just walk to the water and to nearby cafes, but it was also nice to spent some time inside. With, as it should on any girls’ weekend, wine, cheese and crackers.

Book your stay here: Akaroa Waterfront Motels 

Giant’s House

Do you want to feel in a different world? Go to the Giant’s House. Your eyes will go wild, exploring all the impressive and huge sculptures.

The Giant’s House is up a little hill in Akaroa, and owned by Josie Martin. She’s the artist, and has made EVERYTHING herself, over the last 20 years. I think we can call that persistence, patience and talent.

There is so much to see. I could’ve spent all afternoon there. I recommend that you just take your time and wander around. You’d be surprised of what you’ll find.

FOOD

Food can’t be excluded in this guide to Akaroa. Exploring a new place makes one hungry. Luckily for us, there are some good options in this quirky town!

Sweet As

Sweet As café is as French as it can be. Lots of red colours around, freshly baked croissants, baguettes and sweet and savoury crepes.

Every time I visit Akaroa I make a stop at Sweet As, because their croissants and sweets transport me to France. 

Hilltop tavern

A must stop for the view! The location of the Hilltop Tavern is superb. The tables inside and outside give you a first class view on the Banks Peninsula.

I recommend stopping on your way to Akaroa, or on your way back to Christchurch. Take a coffee, wine or some yum food and enjoy the view! It almost looks like a painting!

Sweet and Savage

Looking for some energy? The doughnuts from Sweet ‘n Savage are the perfect sugar infusion. They almost look too delicious to eat, but we did it anyway (no regrets).

You can see and taste that they are made with love. Baker Rachel makes them just outside of Akaroa, and she brings a little food caravan into town in summer. If you want to try them in winter, then I recommend visiting the Christchurch Cafes Uncommon or Park Ranger. They sell her doughnuts too.

Wine

A great place for wine tasting is French Peak Wines. You can find the vineyard on the shore of the Akaroa Harbour.

They ‘re specialised in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, and I like all of them

The Brasserie

On Sunday morning we slowly woke up at The Brasserie, with a much needed coffee and some breakfast. I ate the eggs benedict, tasty and beautifully presented on my plate. I always appreciate it, when cafes do that little extra to present food nicely.

Waterfall Walk

The Banks Peninsula is home to many walks and longer hikes. One right in town is the Newton’s waterfall.

You drive up Aylmers Valley Road to the Misty Parks Reserve car park, or you can walk up the hill. I opted for option two, to stretch the legs a bit.

It’s only a 10-minute walk from the carpark to the waterfall. I didn’t expect much, but it turned out to be quite impressive, rainbow included!

Cinema fever

I’m a fan of little cute cinemas (as you can read here), and Akaroa hides one as well. The Akaroa Cinema is small, with only two small rooms available.

You can take a coffee or wine inside and enjoy a movie in peace.

Some extra tips…

• When driving to Akaroa, start at Dyers pass road, then take Main Road en Gebbies Pass road until you’re in Little River. From then you just follow the main road to Akaroa. This route gives you a beautiful view on the peninsula. It’s a small detour, but you’ll be able to get a better view of the Banks Peninsula.

• Near Akaroa you’ll find the scenic road: Summit Road. Take it on your way to Akaroa. It’s a little detour, but the views are the best. You get a great vantage point, and at one point you will see water on your left and right.

I hope after reading this girls’ guide to Akaroa that you don’t ignore this cute French town when you’re visiting Christchurch!

Disclosure: I received discounts and free activities for the dolphin tours, accommodation, alpaca tour, doughnuts and the Giant’s House. All opinions are, as always my own. Some links might contain affiliate links. That means that by no extra cost of your own, you will be supporting this blog by buying something through these links. Thank you!

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You would like to see a geyser erupt? Check!
You’d like to see hot steam escaping out of gardens and cracks in the road? Check!
You love the penetrating smell of sulphur in your nostrils? Check!

These are all awesome (and smelly) things to experience, but there is so much more around!

When you visit Rotorua, try to look further than the typical Rotorua to do-list and check these other awesome options out:

1. Okere Falls

The Okere Falls Scenic Reserve is a little drive from Rotorua (21 km). Through some easy walks you discover the Kaituna river with several impressive waterfalls, embedded in a rich green forest.

I’m always impressed by the power of waterfalls and with these ones the same story. The sound, the movement, the waves, it always makes my heart pump a bit faster, although I’m standing safe and sound on the side.

And it’s not only beauty here, this place also has a rich Maori history. Many wars were fought here and there are caves where women and children were hidden from invading tribes. You can still see some of the caves. It was by the way already a ‘popular spot’ in the 1900s. A photographer was present every day to take pictures of the ladies in their nice dresses and the gents in their suits in front of the waterfalls.

Afterwards I discovered that you can also raft here! The waterfalls are so loud, super strong and look dangerous. I would love to raft there, but it would definitely be with a TINY heart… We’ll see what the future brings.

2. The Redwood Forest

I didn’t expect a lot of ‘yet another forest’, but this is actually a really cool one! The trees are huge and there are plenty! I felt so small walking around there. And always having been the tallest in primary and high school, that’s a great feeling for a change (I especially remember a school dance at age 13 where I was a head taller than all the boys… still processing that trauma)

Anyways. The Redwood Forest! It is right at the edge of Rotorua, super accessible. Over 5600 hectares of forest gives you an awesome place to walk and play around, mountain bike or go for a run. Walking there with a fresh nose made me feel alive and healthy. It’s a great spot and just makes you feel good. Go!

3. Tarawera Lake

What I love about Rotorua is the amount of lakes. Lakes have something calming over them, and they are big over here! There are 16 lakes in Rotorua, we visited 3 of them. You have the obvious one, Lake Rotorua, which is huge (79,8km²) and at the border of the city. But as you can imagine, we like to discover the hidden, less obvious gems! And Lake Tarawera was definitely one of those.

I have to admit, it is still a big lake (41km²) and there is civilisation around, but it is so photogenic and with the sunset we had, it becomes an incredible beautiful place.

4. Canyon in Whirinaki Forest

With a 1,5h drive, this canyon is a bit further away from Rotorua, but if you like rainforests and a scenic canyon, it’s very worth the while!

Be careful though, if you leave Rotorua without having breakfast, like we did, you’re in trouble! There are no cafés around. None! We were lucky to bump into a little shop in some kind of shed. Bananas and a yoghurt it is!

The canyon is located in the Whirinaki Rainforest. There are small walks, big hiking routes and huts to spend the night. When Nico and I drove down there it had been raining the night before, so everything was fresh and super green! I felt in a fairylike environment, with the reflections of the sun trying to breach through the layers of trees and leafs.

We only stayed a couple of hours, but being there made me want to do one of the longer walks and stay overnight. I think I got excited because two ladies were leaving on a 2 day hike!

5. Lake Okataina

This lake is more hidden and cuter with its 10,8km². You follow a little windy road – Lake Okataina Road – until you reach the lake. And then there is almost nothing around, only the calmness of the lake! Hills are surrounding the lake, making it well protected and covered. Interesting spot to take some photos! And no tourists!

I hope these 5 options make you want to discover Rotorua a bit more! And if not, I hope you enjoy the Spas! ‘Cause I have to admit, that’s awesome too…

[Pics by my partner in crime Nico Babot]

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1. To be amazed by the endless green tea plantations

2. You befriend monkeys

3. and oh yeah, elephants

4. To find the most photogenic people on the flower market in Calcutta

5. To finally get your hands covered with Henna

6. To feel like in a Wes Anderson movie on the Darjeeling Mail

7. To travel on an old school Royal Enfield

8. To feel really really popular

9. To admire the mountains

10. and lakes

11. and ride lost roads

12. To meet other cultures

13. and participate in those cultures

14. To realise traffic at home isn’t that bad at all

15. To see more colours than you’ve ever seen

16. To cruise on a houseboat with a pool

17. and wake up to dreamy sunrises

and of course the FOOD! So there’s only one thing left to do: book those plane tickets and go!

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One of my favourite mountain weekends was the one to Mueller Hut (1800m). It is quite a popular walk – which we try to avoid – but this one is a must. You start in White Horse Hill car park, near Mount Cook village and you go up up up. It isn’t a long walk in distance, only 5,2km (one way), but you climb all the time. And believe me, it’s worth it. A 360 degree panorama, stunning views on glaciers and highest peaks are your rewards. Try to do it in fall or winter, when there is snow!

Can’t wait to see what this weekend is going to bring!

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At least that’s what I thought.

Yes, the luxury resorts have horrendous prices, but you’re not obliged to go there. The Maldives can be done on a budget.

Six years ago guesthouses started popping up, due to a change in regulations. For the first time tourists were allowed to stay among the local population, rather than just on privately owned resort islands. But many budget travellers still don’t know this is possible.

How can I save money?

1. Cheap accommodation: cheap is relative in this case. You won’t find rooms or dorms for 10 dollars. Guesthouses range from 30 to 60 dollars for a double room, which is still way cheaper than the over-expensive resorts. We found good deals on Agoda and booking.com. Try to book in advance, you’ll be surprised by the online discounts (they can go up to 50%). Another option is AirBnb. Unfortunately camping is not allowed.

2. Food: the food is good and cheap. On the more touristy islands (like Maafushi) you have a larger offer, with prices from 5 to 10 dollars. Try for sure Mas Huni, it is the typical Maldivian breakfast. Delicious!

3. Ferries: going from one island to another? Choose the ferry. It is cheap (2-5 dollars) and an experience. It is very basic, you won’t find comfy chairs or many tourists on them. It is slow (we spent 6 hours on it one time), but it is still way cheaper than the speed boats. Those will cost you more than 60 dollars a head for a 20 minute ride. So take your book out, relax and you’ll be fine!

4. Activities: activities can be expensive. Especially if you like diving – the Maldives are a perfect spot. One dive is 50 to 80 dollars. But there are possibilities. I was lucky to have friends who know the art of negotiating. We managed to make a deal on Maafushi for 20 dollars a dive. We guaranteed him we would do at least 10 dives and we were with a group of 5. He wanted customers, so he accepted. It all happened in a friendly manner. Don’t be afraid to negotiate! It will pay off.

Also check with your guesthouse for excursions. They know the island the best and can recommend stuff. Compare the prices of some guesthouses and then choose the one you prefer. It’s perfectly fine to do an excursion with another guesthouse. Most guesthouses have as well fins and goggles, so you can always snorkel by yourself on the island.

There are 1,190 island in the Maldives. 192 are inhabited. Those islands are very small, you can cover them in 20 minutes. None of the streets are paved (which is charming) and there are no ATM’s. Make sure you withdraw enough money on arrival in the country. If you plan to go island hopping and don’t want go back to Malé, make a good estimation of the money you’ll spend. We also had a problem with our credit card. Our VisaCard was not accepted, MasterCard was though.

Muslim country

The Maldives are a great holiday destination, but it still is a muslim country. Meaning there are some rules you have to obey. On arrival in the country you sign a paper that you won’t bring pork, porn, religious symbols or alcohol into the country. Alcohol is forbidden on the local islands. You’ll only find it in resorts or on ‘Safari Boats’. The latter is a boat close to a local island, where you can have a drink. They are rare, but if you’re lucky you can jump on a boat to go to the Safari Boat. Quite some effort for a beer, but you get nice views on the sunset as well.

The no-alcohol-policy made it an interesting New Years Eve. A NYE without alcohol? No way. Not even a bottle of bubbles? The day before NYE a waiter approached us secretive and asked if we would like to buy some alcohol. A friend of him would bring it with a boat. Our eyes lit up and we had a fun NYE ahead. The day itself the waiter was nowhere to be found. After a couple of hours he shows up with guilty eyes. In his poor English he said: “My friend drink it all…”. So that was it. No alcohol for us. Well, we sucked it up, put on our party shoes and had fun. My first NYE without a sip of alcohol. A great memory.

In muslim countries it is also not allowed to show too much skin. This is the same on the Maldives. In the resorts you can do whatever you want, but on the local islands you have to wear respectful clothes. Meaning, you can’t run around in your bikini. Even on the beach. On the popular islands (like Maafushi) there are bikini beaches. You are sheltered from the locals and they are sheltered from your ‘nudity’.

Because independent and budget travel to the Maldives is still new, there isn’t an overload of information online. I did a lot of research and figured the rest out on the spot. For those who are going to the Maldives, I hope I was able to give some tips. For those who thought the Maldives were too fancy to end up on their travel list: Think again!

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When planning where to go in the world, I mostly let my gut feeling decide. If I hear mind blowing stories about a country, it will probably end up on my list. To be honest, India was not on my list. So many countries where I wanted to go and India wasn’t one of them.

But then came that email, an invitation of my high school girlfriend. She announced that she’s marrying her Indian boyfriend, first in Belgium and then in India. I smiled when I got the invitation, I knew immediately what was going to happen. I’m going to INDIA. At that moment I was in Australia and India was not in my ‘schedule’, I had to figure some stuff out, but when you have an opportunity like that, you grab it with both hands.

Trying to get as much out of my India trip as possible, my boyfriend and I planned an unforgettable motorbike trip before the wedding (more about that here: Monkey, elephants and a Royal Enfield). But we couldn’t get the wedding out of our heads.

Feeling like a movie star

The wedding was intense, two days of celebration, usually three, but the stars weren’t in the right position. So we had to be happy with two – which we were of course. It was an incredible, unforgettable and exhausting experience. Amazing, but so different than any European wedding.

First of all: everyone talks. The whole time. In Belgium we sit still and listen polite to what’s happening in front of the room/church, all the eyes on the bride and groom. In India it is the total opposite. A wedding is a perfect chance to reconnect with family and friends they haven’t seen in a while. And they don’t wait to catch up until after the (long) ceremony. So when someone is doing a ritual in Sanskrit in the front, they eat, walk in and out and talk. The dad of the groom even the loudest.

I also loved the rituals during the ceremony. It looks like one big, impressive play. The groom arrives at the house and has to ‘buy’ his wife-to-be from her sister – which was a funny situation, because the groom wasn’t prepared for this and had a mix of dollars, rupees and euros worth only 35 dollars in his pocket. Not enough for the sis of course Then he walks inside, with all the guests in his footsteps. Halfway during the ceremony the bride arrives in the room with leafs in front of her eyes, she has to walk a couple of times around her husband-to-be and can only then reveal her eyes.

From the beginning ’til end there are 2 video cameras and 3 photographers recording everything. I felt like on the set of a movie. Being with only 10 European people, we caught some attention too. For example: when we did the first steps on the dance floor, a second later the 2 camera’s and photographers were shooting it.

Related to that I had an awkward, funny moment during the ceremony. The groom and the dad of the bride were sitting in front with the priest and saying ritual verses to each other. Suddenly one of the photographers says to me: “you, you, go there, between them!” I had to go into the spotlights, crawl awkwardly behind them, sit on my knees and smile. Definitely my weirdest photo-bomb ever.

The traditional clothing, the fresh flowers, the colors, the henna and the sweet people made sure this wedding left quite an impression. I enjoyed it so much. Because it was so different than anything I’ve seen before, because I had a unique glimpse in an interesting and warm culture and because I saw the intense happiness on my friends’ face.

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New Zealand is known for its good wines, but beer-wise it isn’t yet as far. If you like wine tasting, this country is the place, go to Napier on the North Island or Marlborough on the South Island or many more. That’s what my friends and I did. Enjoying the sun in the Marlborough region, eating great salmon and lamb and sipping on wines. A regular weekend turned into a holiday.

We were happily on our way to the third winery when we saw a sign: ‘Moa Brewery and Cellar Door”. Bye bye wine, hello beer!

The tasting costs 5 NZ dollar and is worth the while. You enter a charming bar with a quirky decor and a lovely atmosphere. And not unimportant, a nice barman willing to answer all questions. Outside you have big wooden tables and a barbecue waiting for you. Great if you want a break from all the wine and vineyards and just want to hang out with locals and tourists.

Of course you’re not only here for the fine interior, but for the beers! And they are great too! Moa Beer experiments with different flavors, which spices up the tasting (pun intended). It was for example the first time I tried a ‘smoked’ beer, a strong and hoppy beer with coffee, mocha and smoked cedar characters. My all time favorite though was ‘Moa St Josephs’, the strong spice and caramel characters did it for me.

Go and let yourself be surprised!

Cheers!

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Well, as you can guess, the city surprised me. Ok, it is busy and so big, but it is also really diverse. No matter what you prefer, there’s something for everyone.

What I loved was the area around College Street, where they sell books, books and books. Me and my friends felt like kids in a toy shop.
When you’ve read enough book covers and bought half of them, go relax in the Indian Coffee House, a place where Indian academics often gather and people like to enjoy a good coffee.

Another must is the flower market. I heard good things about it from a friend that lived for years in Calcutta. He advised us to get up early and wander around.

My first 3 seconds on the flower market I was a bit disappointed. I saw a lot of garbage in an unorganized dodgy-looking area. But then I started to see the flowers popping up. The most colourful flowers I’ve ever seen all gathered together. Walking around and seeing and smelling all those flowers is an incredible feeling. On top, the people are so nice. A couple of men gave me roses, another seller put a flower in my hair and I played a bit around with some kids.

Unfortunately our time in Calcutta was limited, because we were going to the wedding of my high school girlfriend Heleen. But we managed to fit in the Kali temple, the Marble Palace and a rooftop bar as well. The Kali temple is the busiest temple I’ve seen so far. You literally have to push and fight to bring your offerings and pray to the gods. For us it was a bit overwhelming, but for sure an experience to never forget. Be aware, in one of the corners they sacrifice goats.

After seeing those poor goats, you probably need a good cocktail. The place to go: Lindsay hotel. It has a classy and laid back rooftop bar and restaurant. Some cocktails, a shisha, and you’re all relaxed, with a nice view on the city. And if you have some time left in Calcutta, go for a visit to Marble Palace, a white marble big mansion.

I hope some of my activities already appeal to you! If you have the chance, go to Calcutta! Do keep in mind: the traffic is the worst and there is still quite some garbage around.

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It’s been a week and a half since we stopped biking. In the mean time I welcomed two girlfriends to India. One of them Marijs, who shares her stories as well, on her blog Rooftop Antics! We already took two cooking lessons, spent the night on a houseboat in Allepey, did an Ayurveda massage and went to the beach in Kovalam. A nice place with a lovely beach, but a bit too touristy for my taste.

I truly enjoyed the relaxation after our bike trip. As written in my previous post, the trip was unforgettable, but also intense. Especially with that crazy traffic.

I wonder what people learn in driving school. Probably to honk, triple pass and drive on the other lane. Yes, they do it all… and very convincing.

Aside of the scary moments on the road, I definitely recommend renting a motorbike in India. You will see so much more than with the regular way of travelling. But there are some things to keep in mind.

Be confident
Most of the time I’m closing my eyes, trying to get my heartbeat down or shouting: “he’s f*cking crazy!” Luckily my boyfriend has his shit together. To be able to drive in that chaotic environment, you need a dose of confidence. Dare to drive offensive or the traffic will swallow you.

Learn the language of honking
Honking is a language on its own in this country. Say goodbye to your blinkers or mirrors (many Indians don’t use them) and start pushing that button.
Indians honk:
– when they want to pass you
– to say hi
– before taking a turn (basically in the mountains you almost honk at every turn, so people in the other direction stay in their lane)
– when you’re in the way and you have to move
– as a respond to your honk
Not a lot of peaceful moments as you can imagine.

Smile!
You will meet a lot of friendly people along the road. A big smile makes their day too. I especially loved the children that were waving and smiling. But two cops also left an impression. A police car made us stop to ask where we were from and wish us good luck. I don’t see that happening in Belgium.

Rent a Royal Enfield
I know everyone has their own taste, but a Royal Enfield is the bike to rent in India! You’re riding on a piece of history. A classy piece! The brand is 125 years old and they’re not made in Europe anymore. It is a good and comfortable bike. And don’t worry about the money. We paid 165 euros for 11 days.

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