Photography Mecca

With my love for photography this park was a dream. You have the big and beautiful Mount Assiniboine as the centre (and attraction) of the park, but there is so much more to discover. Lakes looking like a mirror in the morning, peaks with 360 views and soft light on the mountains.

To get the most out of it I spent six days in the park. Two of those days were assigned to hiking in and out, because this place is not easy to reach. If you’re willing to pay, you can take a helicopter flight in, which is 175CAD for an 8- minute flight. If you don’t have or want to pay that money, you walk the 26km to the Lake Magog campground in the park.

I did the latter.

Day 1: The Hike In

There are different tracks to reach Assiniboine Lodge and the Lake Magog campground. See below for information on the different routes. We chose for the track via Wonder Pass, as it is the most scenic one, and the shortest – still 26km though!

It was our first longer hike in Canada and we were carrying big backpacks, so we decided to split the hike in two and camped our first night near Marvel Lake. This is a popular option, especially for people hiking in.

We left the Mount Shark Trailhead after lunch and hiked to the Marvel Lake campground (also called BR13 on maps). It took us 3.5 hours and I’ll be honest: it was boring. You walk 13km on an easy and maintained track through the woods. There is nothing technical about it and you get no views. There are trees, trees and trees. I felt like I was hiking the same track over and over.

Because it was still bear season we made a lot of noise while hiking – a very funny sight! At the campground there were also wires to hang your food high in the trees – to protect it from bears. There were also some tables, a creek for water and a drop toilet.

Day 2: Marvel Lake campground to Mount Assiniboine

After a good night sleep and no bear encounters we left at 9.30am. 30 minutes later you arrive at Marvel Lake, and believe me when I say it really looks marvellous with its clear blue colour.

Then you follow a track with a tremendous view on the lake. It is so blue, and after all that time in the bush a real treat for the eyes.

While you’re enjoying the scenery you can start preparing yourself mentally for a big climb. To reach Wonder Pass (and eventually Mount Assiniboine) you have to zigzag up and leave the blue lake behind. It took us around 1.5hours to get to Wonder Pass. One hour of that time is steep up, and the last 30 minutes are less steep, but still going up.

You can imagine how happy (and sweaty) I was when arriving at Wonder Pass. It was time to sit down, have some lunch and just relax. The last part to Mount Assiniboine and the Lake Magog campground is easy. You just hike down, and 45 minutes later you reach the lodge. The campground is another 2km from the lodge.

We were perfect on time to enjoy a sunset at Lake Magog and Mount Assiniboine.

Day 3 – 5: Exploring Mount Assiniboine Park

Once we set up our tent it was time to explore the area, and there is SO MUCH to see!

Magog Lake

This is the main lake in the park, close to the campground and the lodge. Mount Assiniboine stands beautifully at the end of the lake. Have a walk around the lake, take a (cold) dip and enjoy a sunrise or sunset with views on Mount Assiniboine.

When we arrived at Mount Assiniboine we were treated on a beautiful sunset.

Sunburst Lake

Sunburst Lake is only a 10minutes walk from the Lake Magog campground. The trail is very clear and easy to follow and before you know it you arrive at the small and beautiful lake.

It’s perfect for sunrise shots, as it’s not that far from the campground, and it offers great sunrise views.

Cerulean Lake

When you walk past Sunburst Lake and you keep going, you’ll end up at Cerulean Lake. It’s bigger than Sunburst, and will take you circa 30minutes from the campground. Its clear waters and reflection of Sunburst Peak are worth the visit!

The Nublet / Nub Peak

If you’ve seen a picture of Mount Assiniboine, it’s probably taken from this location. The Nublet and Nub Peak give you the best views on Mount Assiniboine and its surrounding lakes.

Those who want to hike more can continue on to Nub Peak, giving you an even better view. Take some wind jacket with you, as it can get very windy up there.

Waterfall and surroundings

Although there are lots of lakes and peaks around to explore, the area around the campground and lodge are worthwhile too. There’s a little river flowing with a few small waterfalls. On a hot day it is great to jump in the water and cool down. Don’t freak out though, there are a lot of fishes in it who like to tickle your feet.

Day 6: Hike Out

We started early in the morning, because the days were hot and we wanted to hike out in one go. At 6.45 we hiked in the dark and enjoyed a mild sunrise at Wonder Pass. The hike to Wonder Pass is the only time you really have to walk up on the way out.

Hiking in the early morning is pretty amazing, as all the wildlife is out. We saw plenty of elk, chipmunks and cheeky birds. Those big birds were just sitting in the middle of the track, not moving and caring we were there. It was such a special moment.

At 11.30am we arrived at Marvel Lake, perfect for a lunch break and some more photo time. There were a lot of fires that days, so the view is a bit hazy.

Then it was time for the boring last part back to the car park. I ended up listening to a podcast, because I couldn’t handle the boring road. Unfortunately we couldn’t run it, because of our big bag packs. At 3pm we arrived at the car and we were SO happy.

We didn’t see any bears, but did carry our bear spray with us all the time! You never know when you’ll bump into one.

This truly was such a wonderful week of hiking in a wonderful place. Don’t let the distance scare you, it’s definitely worth a visit and you can take it easy!

Accommodation

There’s something for everyone in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, from camping to staying in a huts or a fancy lodge. We went for a mix of those!

Campground

If you’re planning to cut your walk in two and spend the night at Marvel Lake campground, you’ll need to book this. You can do this via the online reservation system of Parks Canada. The campground is part of the backcountry camping in the Banff, Kootenay and Yoho Backcountry. 

The campground in Mount Assiniboine Provincial park is called the Lake Magog campground, and on the right hand side of the lake. It has 40 campsites and used to work on first come first serve base (when we were there), but since april 2018 an online reservation is required during peak season (June 26 – September 30). There is NO overflow camping anymore. Find more info here.

There’s also a supply of non-potable drinking water and toilets. Use the bear lockers on site, as bears might be closer than you think!

Do bear in mind: the campground is 2km from the lodge – so if you want to go for tea time, you’ll have to do a little walk.

Naiset Huts

There are five Naiset Huts, around 500meters from the lodge. They’re small and cute, and there’s a kitchen hut with everything you need – seriously everything. Such a luxury when staying the mountains. The huts cost $25 per night and bookings are recommended. You can just drop in, but always bring your tent. Nico and I were quite lucky, we stayed three nights at the campground and the last night at one of the huts.

http://assiniboinelodge.com/naiset-and-hind-huts

Assiniboine Lodge

The Assiniboine Lodge is the most luxurious option in the park. You get a comfortable room and lots of food and drinks. Prices are also quite a bit higher, ranging from CAD290 to CAD495 (prices are cheaper in winter). You then either sleep in the main lodge or in one of their nice little huts.

Canmore

The Mount Shark Trailhead is about 40km away from Canmore, so you might want to book a bed the day before beginning your hike. It’s a cute small town, in between the mountains. Have a look at lots of accommodation options.

How to get to Mount Assiniboine?

The closest airport is Calgary International Airport. From there you have different options, including options to hike in to Assiniboine and taking the helicopter.

On Foot

There are multiple tracks to reach Mount Assiniboine. I’ll list the 3 most popular ones.

Mount Shark Trailhead to Mount Assiniboine via Wonder Pass – 26km: The trail starts at the Mount Shark Trailhead, around 40km south of Canmore. The first part of the trail is easy, and it branches off at Bryant Creek (around 14km in). Then you walk along Marvel Lake and hike up to Wonder Pass. From the top of Wonder Pass you just follow the trail down to the Assiniboine Lodge. This hike is seen as the most scenic one, as it passes Marvel Lake. It’s also the shortest hike, but not the easiest, as the hike to Wonder Pass is quite steep.

Mount Shark Trailhead to Mount Assiniboine via Assiniboine Pass – 27.5km: This trail also starts at the Mount Shark Trailhead, and follows the same route to the Bryant Creek Warden Hut. Then you follow the Assiniboine Pass signs. After you pass the McBride’s campsite, continue straight until you reach the Assiniboine Pass. Then you’ll climb steeply before gradually descending the final 3km toward the Lodge. This trail is closed to public during August and September due to bear encounters, although you can still hike via the Assiniboine Pass using the horse trail.

Sunshine Village to Mount Assiniboine – 30km: Start at Sunshine Village Ski and Snow Resort. There is also a shuttle that can drop you off there for 15$ from Banff. Although this trail is the longest, it’s easier than the other options, and also offers great views of Mount Assiniboine.

By Helicopter

This is a great option if you don’t have a lot of time and only want to visit Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. You can also fly in and hike out – or the other way around.

Flights are arranged via the Assiniboine Lodge. They only fly on Friday, Sunday and Wednesday. The flights start at CAD175 one way. Find more information on their website.

What to take to Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park?

The less you carry, the better. You have quite a lot of kilometres to hike, so try to not take too much stuff with you.

Here are the essentials:

Tent: opt for a light one, as it’s nicer to carry.
Sleeping bag
Camping stove (+lighter)
Bear spray
First aid kit
Food (+extra food)
Water purification pills
Map
Camera
Cash: for a tea (or outside of peak season to pay the camping)

If you’re curious what I bring along on my hiking expeditions, have a look at my gear.

Ready to visit Canada?

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Read more about my Canadian adventures:

Winter Wonderland at Emerald Lake Lodge

A Trip Through Time at Num-Ti-Jah Lodge

Maligne Lake Canoe Trip

Hiking Garibaldi Lake

My First Aurora Borealis

Some of the links in this article are affiliate links – which supports this site without costing you anything extra. Thanks!

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How To Get There?

The Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is located on the Icefields Parkway, right at Bow Lake in Banff National Park, offering incredible views on Bow Lake and Cradle Mountain.

From Lake Louise: 38km. Follow the Icefields Parkway and after 30 minutes you will see Bow Lake and the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on your left-hand side.

From Jasper: 195km. Follow the Icefields Parkway south and after 2,5h you will see Bow Lake and the lodge on your right-hand side. There are many amazing stops on the way, so take your time!

As every good and new road tripper in Canada Nico and I wanted to do the Icefields Parkway with all its beautiful locations. Right at the beginning, we drove past the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. The quirky red roof and historic charm immediately drew our attention. We had to stay at this lodge! We got in touch with the manager and were hosted to experience a real Canadian lodge.

In this article you’ll find more about our stay at the lodge, its history and all the awesome things to do in the area!

Simpson’s History

Isn’t “Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah” a great name? I love pronouncing it! There’s more to it than just sounding nice though.

The lodge is named after Englishman Jimmy Simpson, who left England for Canada in 1886 and became one of Canada’s greatest mountain men. He guided people through the Canadian Rocky Mountains, which were back then little-explored.

In 1898 he camped at Bow Lake and vowed to one day “build a shack here”. 25 years later he did it! He built the first log cabin on the site, and he called his operation Num-Ti-Jah, which stands for the small animal pine marten. A few years later he opened the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, back then with six guest rooms. Ten years later he expanded to 16 rooms – and that’s how it still is today.

Apparently Jimmy was a witty and wild character and fun to be around. He became a real living legend and his reputation attracted many tourists. I’m sure it would’ve been nice hanging around the campfire with him! He died in 1972, but his spirit definitely lives on. The cool thing about staying here is that the lodge hasn’t changed much since it was completed in 1950.

In Jimmy’s shoes (and cabin)

When you enter the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, you immediately feel the history. The stuffed animals, wooden structure and old pictures set the time perfectly. You really feel that this place tells a story. Wander around the halls and enjoy the alpine hut feel with a quirky touch.

If you’re looking for a fancy 5 star design hotel, this is not the place for you. The Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is for travellers looking for a real and unique experience, at an amazing location.

Nico and I were offered the opportunity to spend one of our two nights in the Ram Cabin, which is the original cabin, built by mister Jimmy in 1924! That was long before there even was an Icefields Parkway!

The interior of course looks a bit different now, but the structure is still the same. I loved all the wood, and again: the shape! Jimmy definitely had a unique style. It was quite a wonderful experience staying in the original cabin. Do note that it can’t be booked by guests.

The second night we stayed in one of the Lakeview Rooms. The rooms are spacious and simple, which adds to the historical character of the place. Enjoy the charming mishmash of wood panelling and old furniture. Ours even had a bath to warm up after a cold day outside (yes – I spent an hour soaking in water).

The walls are a bit thin (remember it was built in 1950!) and the creaking of floors reminds you that you’re spending the night in a historic and awesome lodge. Imagine how much history is in between these four walls. Decades of travellers have passed through here, all with their own story. Isn’t that wonderful?

Even when you’re not staying at the hotel, you can go to the little café and souvenir shop to breathe in some Jimmy spirit – and to have a laugh with this item:

Majestic mountains and rad reflections

With the lodge set on the side of Bow Lake you get endless stunning views on Crowfoot Mountain, Bow Lake and the Bow Glacier. Crowfoot Mountain stands proud like a big bloke. It is my favourite mountain in Canada, as it is fierce and beautiful.

When it’s windstill, the reflections at the lake are unreal. Take a picture, turn it upside down and you wouldn’t notice it. This place is perfect to breathe in some crisp mountain air, isolated from the busy world.

Of course we couldn’t resist a morning paddle on the lake. Bring your own kayak or rent one in Lake Louise village. It was a cold morning when we were there, but it felt so magical, floating on the still water.

Note: be aware of wildlife, especially in spring and summer. Nico encountered a bear on the shores of Bow Lake, so always be prepared! Bring your bear spray and don’t leave any food or garbage behind. No need to be afraid of bears in winter.

Local food in the Elkhorn Dining Room

Breakfast and dining happens in the Elk Dining Lodge. It’s built in a typical and beautiful lodge style and decorated with lots of hunting trophies. Take a table at the window, dream away with the view outside and most of all: enjoy your dinner.

The breakfast at the lodge was one of the best hotel breakfasts I have ever had. The fruit and more especially the fresh blueberries didn’t survive long and the homemade muesli was outstanding. I recommended the manager to sell the muesli in the shop, it was that good. I hope he listened, so you can try some yourself! Add some nice pastries and eggs and you get a satisfied Lieselot.

After a nice day out hiking Iceberg Lake we warmed up and talked about our awesome day over dinner and drinks. The Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is proud of the food serve, as they should. The chef sources food from local wildlife. Nico ordered venison medallions with a parsnip purée and I was curious to try the bison burger. Nico’s venison was apparently extremely tasty, and my burger was good too!

What to see in the area?

The Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is the perfect base to explore the rest of the Icefields Parkway, which starts in Lake Louise and ends in Jasper. Here’s a list of things to do within a 30 minute drive from the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge.

1. Bow Lake

Bow Lake is one eye catcher you can’t miss when driving the Icefields Parkway. The big blue lake, accompanied by the impressive Crowfoot mountain is a beautiful sight. It’s right at the lodge, so perfect to go for a morning stroll after breakfast or to enjoy a nice sunset.

2. Bow Glacier & Bow Glacier Falls

The Bow Glacier is visible from the lake and the lodge. The runoff from the glacier supplies water into Bow Lake. The glacier isn’t super impressive from the ground, but there is a cool hike you can do to get closer. It’s called Iceberg Lake hike, and it will take you to a lake at the bottom of the glacier at 2260m high. It is one of my favourite hikes in Canada, and I’ll dedicate a blogpost to it in the near future!

The melt water from the Bow Glacier turns into the impressive Bow Glacier Falls, 120 meters high. There’s also an easy walk that goes from the lodge to the bottom of the falls, but I suggest doing the Iceberg Lake Hike, as this will bring you to the top of the falls.

3. Peyto Lake

Peyto Lake is a clear blue glacier lake and only a 10-minute drive away from the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. It is 140ha big and super impressive. If you’re looking for one of those typical Canadian Rockies shots, this is it! A little walk brings you to a viewpoint, which is great to take some pictures.

Winter in Canada is pretty harsh and huge lakes freeze, as does Peyto Lake. It is covered in snow and look so different. It’s still a very cool location, but I do prefer it in summer with the clear blue colours!

4. Herbert Lake

As you’ll quickly notice, the Icefields Parkway has an abundance of lakes. The most famous ones are Peyto and Bow Lake, but Herbert Lake is also a nice little stop. Get out your lunch and enjoy the crisp mountain air and beautiful views.

5. Lake Louise

The village of Lake Louise is 30 minutes away from the lodge and it’s home to the famous Lake Louise. The lake is a popular destination, and there’s a lot to see and do around it. Hike up to the Tea House and the Beehive and get some unreal views from above!

Lake Louise is also a perfect stop for to fill up your car and have a coffee or some lunch.

6. Hiking Helen or Hector Lake

Keen to go hiking? Then Helen or Hector Lake might be for you. Helen Lake is 1km south of Bow Lake and it takes a 1.5 to 2hours hike to get to it. You’ll climb about 460 meters and get some cool views. Find more information here.

Hector Lake is a 21 minutes drive away from the lodge. It’s a small glacial lake that you reach after a 5km hike. It’s an easy walk and you’ll enjoy a refreshing swim in the lake on a hot summer day!

7. Mistaya Canyon

This is one cool place that you have to visit! The curvy canyon walls and the Mistaya river flowing makes it an impressive place, great for some photos! Be aware though, it can be very slippery and without railing it’s easy to fall into the canyon. Even in spring the trail can be still very icy. It’s a half hour drive from the Num-Ti-Jah and easy to reach after a 10 minute walk.

As you can see, you have plenty of activities to do in the area. Combine multiple locations on this list for the perfect day out! Don’t forget to spend enough time in the lodge too! Relax, have a delicious dinner and watch a sunset at Bow Lake.

How do you travel? Do you like to visit places with lots of history? Or are you more interested in only seeing nature? 

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Num Ti Jah Lodge Alberta

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(get ready for a bit of history of my life)

Three years (and a few months) ago I arrived in New Zealand, planning to stay only two months to travel. Then I would head back to Australia where it’s hot and where I had a Working Holiday visa.

Things changed course when I bumped into a charming Frenchman and decided to stay for a while in New Zealand instead of Australia. A while has now turned into three – and a bit – years.

Life in New Zealand has been incredible. I’ve had the chance to work full-time in social media, do freelance videography and work with tourism boards and companies with my blog.

But even better, I’ve had the chance to discover this vast and beautiful country. It had been my dream to visit New Zealand since I was a young girl, and I could’ve never guessed I would end up living here. Young me would be proud.

The New Zealand chapter is over (for now). Time to go somewhere else.

I hear you thinking: Wheeeereeee the heck are you going?

I’m going to Canada.

Canadaaaaaaa. I can’t believe it, even when writing these words. Do you have that sometimes? That life doesn’t feel real? In August I will fly out of New Zealand, but I’m not realising it. It’s like I’m looking at my life as a bystander.

I’m not going to Canada because New Zealand sucks, because it obviously doesn’t. Many articles on my blog are proof of that.

There are a few reasons why I (and my boyfriend, aka The Kiwifrog) are going to Canada.

1. It was the last chance for me to grab a Canadian Work Travel visa

I found out I had a chance to apply for a Canadian working holiday visa (called International Experience). It was my very last chance, because Belgians can only apply until they’re 30.

As you can read in my ‘Thoughts on turning 30‘ -post I turned 30 in April. I applied a few months before D-day and to my surprise I got it! Only a certain amount of Belgians get the visa, and I was one of the lucky ones.

This was my last chance to experience a working holiday worldwide, so I could not ignore it. For all other countries I’m either too old, or I’ve already used the visa.

A year for me is perfect. It gives me the chance to live, rather than travel in a country. I can taste the country, see where I like it and stay longer and work in one place. This way you experience a country from the inside, you meet locals and you discover the culture.You really getting to know a country and for me that’s the best way of travelling.

2. Apparently Canada is beautiful

The things I’ve heard about Canada are nothing but positive. People are nice, the mountains are amazing and the lakes are as blue as the bluest eyes. Almost sounds like New Zealand – only bigger.

I can’t wait to share the Canadian beauty on The World is a Circus. Let me know if there is anything I definitely can’t miss out on!

3. A bit closer to family and friends

This might look funny to some of you because I will still be living and travelling far away, but it’s already closer to home, right? I always say to my family and friends back in Belgium: it’s halfway back already! On a serious note, this destination is easier to fly to than New Zealand, because New Zealand is really really far away from Europe.

I decided my trip to Canada is also the perfect opportunity to visit my family in Belgium. So I booked a little side trip to my lovely home country in December. I’ll experience Christmas again in the cold! That will feel weird, after having it in Australia, India and New Zealand for the last 4 years.

4. It’s not a goodbye from New Zealand

I’ll have been three years and a half in New Zealand when I’ll leave to Canada and there is still so much I want to see. New Zealand is seriously an amazing country to live in.

We love it here, so it is definitely not a goodbye. We’ll be back!

Have you been to Canada? Do you have any tips for this excited newbie Canada-explorer?

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