But let me tell you… Canoeing is hard. I’ve kayaked before, but man, little did I know that canoeing takes quite a bit of effort. Most of the canoe pictures you find online look idyllic and calm. Like this one, that Nico took of me on our Maligne Lake canoe trip.

Doesn’t look like hard work is involved, right? Well: wrong! First of all canoeing is THE relationship test (at least, that’s what they say). You have to be in sync with your partner, which isn’t always easy. PS: we survived.

Secondly, if there is any head wind, you’re paddling for nothing and might even go backwards. Add some snow to the party, and you’ll be freezing your hands and feet off. And we got both!

Having said that, canoeing in nature and almost all by yourself is a pretty unforgettable experience. Especially in the Canadian Rockies, early in the morning when reflections are going off.

Fisherman’s Bay Base  

Maligne Lake is the largest lake in Jasper National Park, and even the largest natural lake in the entire Canadian Rockies. You can imagine it is quite popular. To experience it to the fullest we decided to do a canoe trip and spend the night at one of the campsite locations right on the lake. These campgrounds are not accessible by road – only by canoe. It will just be you, some other camper and the wildlife.

We booked two nights at Fisherman’s Bay, 14km from the Maligne Lake shore, and rented a canoe via Pure Outdoors Rentals. They dropped it off in the morning, so we got an early start.

It was a sunny and cloudy day, making the water very smooth in the morning. Our plan was to paddle a bit and then take pictures, but after five minutes we were already going wild with our cameras.

After tuning in to each other (‘the couple test’), we paddled for an hour and a half and arrived at the first picnic stop. A great place to stretch the legs and have snack. When we were about to leave we heard some noise in the bushes. The first thought that pops in your mind is “beaaaars”! But it turned out that it was a lovely and curious elk family.

An hour and a half later we arrived at the Fisherman’s Bay Campground. It’s a small backcountry campground with only eight campsites. Our site looked out on the lake, which was pretty special. A toilet; bear proof food storage and a cooking area were also provided.

Famous Spirit Island 

The famous Spirit Island is… not an island. Spirit Island is actually a peninsula, and turns into an island only certain periods of the year. We visited during a period when the water was lower, so it definitely wasn’t an island. But still pretty though!

Spirit ‘Island’ is only two kilometres (or 20minutes) away from the Fisherman’s Bay Campground. A quick paddle brings you there.

You’re privileged when camping at Fisherman’s Bay. There is no need to fight the crowds, as you can choose when to visit the island. Most people opt for the boat tour that drops you off at the view point. You get 15 minutes to soak in the view, and off you go.

Because we spent two nights at the campground, we had the chance to go often to Spirit Island and to stay as long as we liked. We went once for sunrise and twice for sunset. During the day there are many boat tours arriving, but the last one leaves around 6 or 7pm. Meaning: you have the island all to yourself at sunset.

Four Seasons in a Day

Getting up for sunrise got us a bit tired, so we decided to take a nap in the afternoon. We crawl in our sleeping bags, and when we wake up two hours later, it is snowing.

It felt so unreal and magical. We got out of the tent and entered a snowy fairy-tale. The beautiful, thick snowflakes just kept falling. At one point it stopped snowing and the sun peaked through, giving us some beautiful golden light. Magical.

After the snowfall we had to head back to Spirit Island, to get some shots in the snow. Mountains always look better with a layer of snow. And the cold, you just have to suck it up (and dress warm!)

Canoe Conclusion

I had a not-so-long think about it, and I don’t think canoeing is my sport. After my three day Maligne Lake canoe trip I can say with confidence that I prefer hiking above canoeing. Don’t get me wrong, paddling in a canoe in the middle of nowhere is super special, but in my case only for five kilometers max.

I absolutely loved my first-time canoe trip to Maligne Lake, and it might even be one of my top three Canadian trips, but I discovered canoeing isn’t my thing. I definitely want to do it again, but my ideal canoe trip would be with some friends, taking wine, firewood and paddle for five kilometers to our campground. It is still a peaceful and unique experience, but without making the canoeing the main activity! Please don’t judge me

Where To Camp?

There are three backcountry campgrounds along Maligne Lake. There is Hidden Cove campground at 4km, Fisherman’s Bay campground at 13km, and Coronet Creek campground at 21,3km.

We chose Fisherman’s Bay campground, because it’s only a two kilometre paddle to Spirit Island, but I’ve heard that the Coronet Creek campground is pretty cool too. This area is very popular, so definitely book your campground in advance. We booked our trip a few months before arriving. You can book a camp site on the Parks Canada website.

If you are not really a camper and would like to spend the night in a bed, there are many options for hotels in the town of Jasper. Find them here: Jasper accommodation.

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Where To Rent a Canoe?

There are a few options to rent a canoe, but I highly recommend Jasper Outdoors Rentals. They’re located in Jasper, and are the cheapest option around. The canoes are great, of good quality and pretty! You pay $80 per day per canoe, and get a 25% discount for multi-days rentals.

I found it super easy booking with them and getting the canoe. They delivered it right at the lake, easy peasy. We also got lifejackets and enough dry bags for all our stuff and camera gear (we don’t want that gear to get wet ).

How To Get To Maligne Lake?

You find Maligne Make in Jasper National Park. It’s a four hour drive from Edmonton or an hour and 15 minutes from Jasper.

From Jasper you take Highway 16 East towards Edmonton. Two kilometres from Jasper, turn right across the bridge onto Maligne Road. Continue for 46 km south on the Maligne Road to Maligne Lake. And then it’s time to enjoy the scenery!

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Read more about my Canadian adventures:

Hiking Garibaldi Lake

My First Aurora Borealis

Welcome To Canada

Have you done a canoe trip? Where was it? Should I check it out?

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